Tash's Table

A selection collection of dishes, drinks, designs and ideas on my table right now!

From Photographer Manja Wachsmuth:
Vanilla Blogtails and Vanilla Cocktails for New Year from Vanilla Table.
Manja shares her background thoughts of photographing Spice Health Heroes and sharing a few of her favorite recipes from the book.
The recipe Oozy Salted Chocolate Caramel Tart – the tart dough is kindly supplied by the fabulous Natasha.

The Tonga Trifle

The trifle ‘reveal’ took place on Vava‘u Island, Tonga for Heilala’s First Annual Vanilla Harvest Event. As the massive bowl was paraded around the tables after a three-course luncheon I detected agonized sighs coming from the 22 guests as they protested: ‘No! No! Not the trifle!’, then whispers of ‘bacon bits in a dessert?’ But of course! I love the sweet–salty combination of crispy bacon, oozey vanilla caramel and hot fudge sauce. Needless to say, as the guests pushed back their chairs post-trifle I noticed all that remained in the bowl were a few cake crumbs and toasted almonds. And the bacon bits? Gone.

* To make alcohol-free, substitute pineapple or apple juice for the rum. 

Directions

Vanilla rum buttercake
Preheat the oven to 325°F/160°C. Have all ingredients at room temperature. With 2 tsp of the butter, grease a Bundt/ tube pan (or 2 loaf pans) and set aside. In a medium bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In the bowl of a stand-mixer with a paddle attachment or a hand-held mixer, cream butter and sugar at medium speed, until light and fluffy. Bring speed to low and add eggs, one at a time, until mixed, scraping down sides of bowl between each egg. In stages, with mixer on low speed, alternate flour mixture and yogurt, ending with flour. Add rum and vanilla paste and combine well. Spoon into prepared pan, smooth top and bake for 50–60 minutes, until a wooden toothpick inserted in center comes away clean.

Vanilla and rum butter glaze
In a small saucepan, heat sugar, golden syrup and water, with a big pinch of sea salt. Simmer to dissolve the sugar, then stir in butter. Continue to simmer for 1 minute, being careful not to boil. Remove from heat and whisk in rum and vanilla. While cake is still warm, prick all over with a long skewer, then slowly spoon over the glaze, allowing it to soak in. Cool cake completely before unmolding.

Jim’s white chocolate pastry cream
Sift flour, cornstarch and sugar into a bowl. Add egg and whisk until light and without any lumps. In a small non-aluminum pot, bring milk to a simmer. Whisk half of the milk into egg mixture until blended, then pour mixture back into pot. Set aside whisk and using a heat-resistant spatula or wooden spoon, stir constantly, cooking over medium–high heat until pastry cream comes to a simmer and thickens. Remove pot from heat and whisk in chocolate, butter, vanilla and rum. Blend until smooth. Cover the surface with plastic wrap while cooling to prevent a skin forming. Refrigerate until needed.

Vanilla caramel sauce
Prepare an ice bath by filling a large metal bowl halfway with ice and cold water.

Melt butter in a large saucepan. Stream in sugar and big pinch of sea salt. Stir gently with a wooden or heat-resistant spoon until combined, to prevent lumps. When the sugar begins to caramelize, add lemon juice, which slows the sugar from caramelizing too quickly. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until sugar is a deep golden brown. Take off heat and stir in the warm cream in 4 stages, being careful to prevent splattering. Place pot in an ice bath, add vanilla and stir sauce occasionally as it cools and thickens. Cover and refrigerate until needed. Will keep chilled for 2 weeks.

Hot fudge sauce
Melt chocolate in double boiler, stirring occasionally, over barely simmering water. Turn off heat and keep warm. Whisk sugar, salt, golden syrup, water and cocoa powder to a simmer in a heavy pot over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer 1–2 minutes, slowly whisking to dissolve cocoa powder and to prevent burning on bottom of pan. Drizzle in melted chocolate and cook 2 minutes more, whisking continuously until thickened and glossy. Blend in vanilla paste and extract. Will keep chilled for 2 weeks.

Vanilla candied bacon bits
vanilla sugar 2 Tbsp/45g/1 ½ oz
pink peppercorns, freshly ground 2 Tbsp (45 g/1½ oz)
lightly smoked bacon 4 slices (125 g/4½ oz)

Directions:
Preheat oven to 350°F/180°C. Mix vanilla sugar and pink peppercorns in a pie tin or small plate. Dredge the bacon in the mixture and lay on lined baking tray. Cook 25–30 minutes, turning over halfway through baking. (Do not be tempted to increase oven temperature as bacon will burn.) Remove from oven and drain on a cooling rack. Chop into bacon bits. If not crispy enough, scatter into a small dry sauté pan over medium heat and warm until crispy. Set aside until ready to use or for longer storage, cool completely and store chilled in an airtight container.

To assemble and serve
Whisk cream with vanilla until whipped.

Slice cake into pieces and make a layer in bottom of trifle dish or a large tall-sided glass bowl (4 qt/4 L). Add a generous splash of rum, and top with one-third of the pastry cream.

Slice bananas into rounds and arrange a third around sides and center of bowl.

Add spoonfuls of vanilla caramel sauce, then dollops of whipped cream.

Drizzle over a third of the fudge sauce, then sprinkle surface with a third each of the almonds and coconut.

Repeat layers, beginning with the rum-splashed cake slices, 2 more times.

Finish the top layer with whipped cream and fudge sauce. Lightly cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 hours or up to a day to allow the flavors to infuse.

When ready to serve, let trifle come to room temperature. Top with a generous amount of bacon bits and pass around the table with a large serving spoon – Enjoy!

Heirloom Tomato Bisque with Green Pea Pesto

What to do with all those gorgeous homegrown tomatoes? A traditional bisque adds shellfish and a roux. This version is vegetarian and gluten-free as it is thickened with vanilla-caramelized onions rather than a flour-based roux.

Directions

1. If using fresh tomatoes - preheat the oven to 375°F.  Line a baking tray with lightly greased foil, then place halved tomatoes cut-side up on sheet.  Sprinkle with sugar and salt and roast for 40 minutes, until bubbly and lightly browned on top.

2. Melt the butter in a large sauce pan with vanilla seeds and pod.  Add onion and cook until translucent.  Add garlic, bay leaf and stock.  Add roasted tomatoes (or canned) and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes (or 30 minutes for canned tomatoes).

3. Add pepper and season to taste with lemon juice and salt.  Simmer an additional 5 minutes then remove vanilla pod and discard.

4. Puree liquid with a hand blender or food mill until smooth.  Gently whisk in cream, yogurt or crème fraiche.

For Green pea pesto:  

1. Simmer peas in salted water for 2 minutes.  Drain well then pour into a food processor bowl with the S blade.  Add garlic, oil, basil and lemon juice.  Whizz to a fine puree then add Parmesan with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Set aside or chill until ready to serve.

To Serve:

 Top the bisque with green pea pesto and crème fraiche (if wished) and serve immediately with warm buttered toast.  May be refrigerated and reheated next day, or you can also serve this bisque cold.

Fenugreek-Poached Pear with Dessert Dukkah

As a 14-year-old budding dancer, I was obsessed with making steamed pears with Cool Whip topping sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. A tad more sophisticated in flavour, texture and colour, these Fenugreek-poached Pears are sublime sitting on a bed of Dessert Dukkah. The toasty maple characteristics of the fenugreek swirl on the tongue, but be mindful not to overtoast or you may have to start again.

Directions

Put the sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, and allspice berries into a 2-litre (2-quart) heavy metal pan and add 120ml (½ cup) of water. Bring to a simmer on medium–high heat, gently swirling the liquid occasionally, and reduce until syrupy and amber in colour. Carefully add a further 350ml (1½ cups) of water (be careful as it will bubble up). Stir to dissolve the caramel, then add the fenugreek seeds and leaves, pears, wine and lemon peel. Place a piece of damp muslin (cheesecloth) or a circle of parchment paper with a small cut in the middle over the pears to keep them gently submerged. Gently poach until tender but still firm, about 18 minutes.

Remove the pears from the liquid to cool, then chill the poaching caramel in an ice bath. Return the pears to the chilled liquid caramel and cover and chill until needed. Make the Dessert Dukkah (see below).

To serve, arrange 1 heaped tablespoon of dukkah on each of four plates. Using a sharp knife, level the bottom of the pears so they stand flat. Arrange each pear in the middle of the dukkah and serve with the pear-poaching caramel sauce and labneh or softly whipped cream if wished.

Dessert Dukkah

Makes 140g (5oz./1 CUP)
1/8 tsp fenugreek seeds
½ cinnamon stick, broken into chips
1 tbsp flax seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp caraway seeds

In a small pan over low heat toast the fenugreek seeds very lightly for just a few minutes and remove to the spice grinder to cool. Turn the temperature to medium then toast the cinnamon chips. Cool and finely grind together and transfer to a small bowl. Toast the flax, coriander, cumin and caraway seeds together over medium heat until you can smell the spices. Cool then grind finely.

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the pecans, almonds and pumpkin seeds together until roughly ground.

Add to the small bowl with the spices, sugar, salt and vanilla powder (if using) and mix well. Stored tightly covered in a cool place, the dukkah will keep for up to 3 weeks, or freeze it for up to 2 months.

Toasted Pepper, Lemon and Strawberry Swirl Ice Cream

Black pepper is a surprising companion to sweet summer berries and here adds an addictively spicy base note to a creamy lemon- and strawberry-infused ice cream. Have fun with your guests when asking them to guess the flavour; they will be mystified when trying to settle on the secret ingredient but will be instantly converted to its aromatic charms.

Directions

Put the lemon zest, sugar, peppercorns and salt into the bowl of a food processor or blender and process until the zest is fine and well combined. Add the lemon juice and blend until the sugar dissolves. With the motor running, add the crème fraîche. Cover and chill for 1–3 hours to allow the flavours to meld.

Wash, hull and slice the strawberries into a bowl. Add the sugar, limoncello and a pinch of salt and fold until the strawberries are coated. Lightly mash with a fork. Cover and let stand for an hour, stirring occasionally, then chill for 1–3 hours.

Freeze the lemon mixture in an ice-cream maker, following the manufacturer’s instructions, or pour into a dish and freeze, stirring occasionally, until frozen.

Layer a third of the lemon ice cream into a freezer container, then add a third of the strawberry compote. Repeat these layers twice more, then cover and freeze.

Cardamom Carmel Orange Ice Cream

A bit of spiced decadence, this recipe is nevertheless a leaner style of ice cream containing no egg yolks and only half the amount of double (heavy)/whipping cream.

Directions

Dry-toast the cardamom in a small pan then roughly grind the pods and seeds in a mortar and pestle.

For the caramel, in a small pan, heat the orange and lemon juice, orange zest, sugar, cardamom, half the vanilla pod (bean) pieces (reserve the remainder for the ice cream) and a pinch of salt to a simmer, taking care it doesn’t bubble over. Stir occasionally and cook until the sauce is as thick as honey. Whisk in the cream and coconut oil until well blended. Let it stand for 10 minutes off the heat, then strain out the larger pieces of cardamom and cool completely. Cover and chill until needed.

To make the ice cream, in a medium pan, heat the coconut cream and whipping cream with three quarters of the sugar, the reserved half vanilla pod (bean) pieces and a large pinch of salt until steamy and the sugar has dissolved. Turn off the heat, whisk to help cool and add the rum if using. Cover and chill until cold.

Beat the egg whites in a bowl with a whisk or electric mixer until frothy. Stream in the remaining sugar and continue to whip until the whites form shiny stiff peaks.

Fold the cream into the meringue in stages until incorporated.

Freeze in an ice-cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Scoop one third of the ice cream into a container then spoon the caramel on top. Repeat the layers. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and freeze until firm.

2018 New Year Gougeres

Delicious make ahead savoury profiterole appetizer to start your New Year”s celebration that pairs perfectly with a glass of bubbles or a Southern Hemisphere summertime beer! Speck is a traditional pork cut at the local butchers and similar to smoked bacon but generally is cured with spices such as bay leaf and juniper. Or use a bit of leftover Christmas ham or smoked chicken, or leave out all together and add a little touch of chilli paste instead!

Bread and Butter Persian Pickles

This tangy but slightly sweet pickle is delicious and is made with Persian (also known as Lebanese) cucumbers,which have a slightly thicker skin than hothouse ones, and few if any seeds.

Directions

Layer the vegetables into a strainer and gently toss with the salt. Cover with a clean cloth and leave for 3 hours.Drain the vegetables, rinse thoroughly and drain again.

Put the sugars, spices and vinegar in a large stainless-steel or enamel pan (remember that turmeric stains!) and bring to the boil. Add the vegetables and return to the boil for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and spoon the vegetables into sterilized jars, then pour the liquid over all. Seal the jars, rinse under running water and cool on the work surface.

Store in a dark pantry and keep refrigerated once opened.

Country Onion Mushroom Soup

This is a quick and simple, thick, potage-style soup that I created as executive chef of Bridge Street restaurant in Bigfork, Montana, owned by the award-winning Chateau Montelena Winery in Napa, California. The restaurant was surrounded by a lovely herb and veggie garden, where I grew the horseradish used in this dish. When the time came to make it, the entire kitchen crew would back away as this fresh spice is odourless when uprooted, but once you break the skin, the smell is pungent! The volatile oil it contains is a powerful natural antibiotic but it can make you swoon and your eyes fill with tears!

Directions

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/gas mark 4). Cut the top off the garlic head to expose the cloves, then peel away just the outer layers of the garlic-bulb skin, leaving the skins of the individual cloves. Wrap loosely in foil and drizzle a tablespoon of oil over the garlic. Close the foil at the top, place on a baking tray and roast in the oven for about 30–35 minutes until soft and golden brown.

While the garlic is roasting, make the Turmeric Melted Onions (see below.)

Heat the grapeseed oil and sauté the mushrooms with the nutmeg and thyme leaves in a 2-litre (2-quart) pot until almost dry over medium heat, about 5 minutes.

Reduce the heat to low, add the Turmeric Melted Onions and half the roasted garlic (keep the other half for other use; it will keep for about 2 weeks refrigerated) and mix well. Add the port and reduce for 2 minutes or so. Add the stock and simmer for 3–5 minutes.

Stir in the mashed potato, lemon juice and horseradish and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve warmed in big bowls, topped with a sprinkle of freshly grated nutmeg, accompanied by your favourite garlic bread, if wished.

Turmeric Melted Onions

Pomegranate Pistachio Parfait

With chia seeds full of protein and seductive ruby-red pomegranate juice packed with anthocyanins and prostate-healthy antioxidants, this light and easy-to-make pudding sweetened with honey is a dairy-free delight – refreshing, romantic and healthy!

Directions

To make the chia cream, mix together all the ingredients in a bowl, cover and chill for 3 hours or overnight.

Cover the gelatin leaves in ice-cold water and leave until soft. In a small saucepan, warm the pomegranate juice with the honey to dissolve. Drain and squeeze excess water from the gelatin then stir it into the juice. Divide the liquid among four dessert glasses. Chill until firm.

Whisk the vanilla, sugar and ground cardamom into the labneh.

Spoon the chia cream layer on top of the pomegranate gelatin layer then top with vanilla labneh. Sprinkle over some chopped pistachios and garnish with figs. Sprinkle over a few drops of rose water.

Organic Blueberry-Toasted Polenta Upside Down Cake 

Simple to make, and not too sweet, this make-ahead vanilla blueberry cake a version of the recipe in Vanilla Table is perfect for a light dessert or brunch and easily made gluten free. 

Directions

Line a 9-inch/ 20-cm cake or pie pan with foil and butter the foil. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350°F/180°C.

Toast polenta in the oven or in a dry sauté pan until you can smell it toasting and is lightly browned. Cool completely, then pulse with the flour, slat and baking powder in a food processor to a fine grind.

Melt butter in a frying pan over medium–low heat. Add brown sugar and stir with a heat-resistant or wooden spatula until the mixture begins to bubble. Add vanilla seeds and pods stirring well for 1 minute. Add lime zest, juice and rum—the mixture will sizzle —and stir until blended. Remove from heat and pour sugar glaze into prepared cake pan. Arrange pods in center of cake pan. Add blueberries in a layer completely covering the top. Drizzle with any remaining glaze. Set aside.

Whisk the flour, polenta, baking powder and salt in a small bowl.

In a large grease-free bowl, and using a hand-mixer or stand-mixer, whisk the egg whites until frothy. Slowly stream in half the sugar and whip the whites to glossy, soft peaks, tripled in volume.

In a large bowl, whisk the yolks with remaining sugar until well blended. Add the vanilla, milk and oil, whisking well.

Fold dry ingredients into yolks, using a spatula to combine. Fold in the whites in 3 stages until just blended. Gently pour or spoon batter on top of blueberries, smoothing the top. Place in center of oven and bake for 23–25 minutes until cake is set and springs back when touched in centre.

Cool for 10 minutes then invert onto a serving plate, carefully peeling foil off the top. Serve warmed or at room temperature with a spoonful of vanilla sour cream or Greek yogurt, scattering a few banana pieces and mandarins around the plate.

Mandarins in Citrus Syrup

I learned how to make this garnish from Chef Sherry Yard (@sherryyard) at the original Spago Hollywood-my first job out of culinary school. Use a paring knife or clean thumbnail to make sure all the white pithy threads are scraped off without piercing the skin. The citrus segments are suspended in the syrup, keeping them moist. Adding a little alcohol, such as vodka or orange liqueur, is a natural preservative and helps them last for a week. Feel free to add toasted whole spices such as a few cardamom seeds, a cinnamon stick, one whole allspice berry, or a few fresh ginger pieces into the syrup for a spicer profile.

The Vanilla Lemon Drop

Inspired by a Taste of Vanilla Lemonade in Hawaii, this  perfect celebration cocktail, combining two fragrant tastes only takes mere seconds to mix and enjoy ©Photo by Manja Wachsmuth - foodphotographersfavorites.co.nz

Brown Butter Plum Tart

The brown butter plum tart, originally created for Union Restaurant in Santa Monica, is still one of my favorite ways to enjoy the simple yet versatile plum.

More of my recipes to share online.